Windows and Doors That Keep Salt Air and Rain Out

Why coastal windows fail early

Salt settles on tracks, hinges and locks, and it holds moisture there. Steel hardware rusts, aluminum frames pit, and sliding doors start to stick in their tracks. The bigger risk is the joint between the window and the wall. When onshore wind pushes rain sideways, a frame without proper flashing lets water into the wall below the sill, where it stays hidden.

That is why we look at the stucco or siding around a window as closely as the window itself.

Retrofit or full-frame replacement

A retrofit window fits inside the old frame. It costs less and leaves the stucco alone, which is the right call when the existing frame is sound and dry. A full-frame replacement takes the old window out to the framing, so the opening can be inspected, repaired and flashed again before the new unit goes in.

We recommend full-frame when there are stains under the sill, rot at the framing, or a history of leaks. Otherwise retrofit is usually the sensible choice, and we say so.

Choosing frames and hardware for the coast

Vinyl and fiberglass both resist corrosion, and fiberglass moves less with heat on a sunny wall. Wood-clad units look warm but need their paint kept up. For sliding and swing patio doors, we look for stainless or coated hardware, a sill with a tall back dam, and weep holes that drain to the outside. On houses in the Coastal Commission zone or under an HOA, frame color and sightlines may need approval, and we work that into the plan.